Local Maytag cooktop repair in Round Rock, TX.
Real recent repair cases. Prices shown are from past completed jobs.
Top verified matches for Maytag Cooktop Repair in Round Rock.
Appliance: Gas Cooktop Brand: Whirlpool Issue Type: Electrical Short / Ignition System Failure Customer Complaint The customer reported that the circuit breaker would trip when using the gas cooktop.
During diagnostics, it was discovered that one of the spark switches had melted, causing an electrical short. The most likely cause was liquid spillage during cooking, which penetrated the control area and damaged the spark ignition switch.
Parts:
* Prices shown are from past completed jobs and include parts and labor. Actual repair cost varies by model, diagnosis, and part availability.
Cooktops can fail due to control, sensor, or power/gas delivery problems. We isolate the system first.
If your Maytag cooktop displays a code, it narrows the failing system quickly.
A cooktop that won’t heat usually points to a failed element/coil, faulty igniter, a bad switch, or a control problem. We verify the exact failure before quoting parts.
Quick tip: Electric: swap a working burner/element into the failing position (if removable). If the problem follows the burner, the element is likely bad.
Learn more →Ignition failures often come from weak igniters, dirty burner caps/ports, a failed spark switch, or a shorted ignition module. We test what’s actually failing.
Quick tip: Make sure the burner cap is seated correctly — even slight misalignment can block ignition and cause clicking.
Learn more →Continuous clicking usually means moisture in the switch area, a stuck spark switch, or a failing spark module. It’s common after boil-overs or cleaning.
Quick tip: If it started after a boil-over, let the cooktop dry for a few hours. Moisture can keep the igniter clicking.
Learn more →Uneven heating is commonly caused by burner alignment, weak elements, an incorrect pan (induction), or a failing regulator/switch. We confirm the cause with measurements.
Quick tip: Try another pan — warped cookware creates uneven heat on gas and electric, and can fail detection on induction.
Learn more →A gas odor can indicate a leak at a valve, fitting, regulator, or burner assembly. This is a safety issue — we locate and confirm the leak source before any repair.
Quick tip: If you smell gas: turn off burners, open windows, and shut off the gas supply if safe. Do not keep trying to ignite the burners.
Learn more →A weak flame usually comes from clogged burner ports, an incorrect burner cap position, a restricted orifice, or a regulator/valve issue. We confirm gas flow and the restriction point.
Quick tip: Remove and reseat the burner cap and head. If the flame is still weak, stop guessing — gas flow needs proper testing.
Learn more →If a burner lights then goes out, it can be a flame sensing/ignition issue, valve problem, or airflow/port blockage. We test the ignition and gas delivery together.
Quick tip: Clean the burner cap/ports and ensure the cap is aligned. If it still won’t stay lit, it needs proper ignition + gas testing.
Learn more →When only one burner fails, the cooktop is usually fine — the issue is often localized to that burner’s element/igniter, switch, or wiring. We isolate it quickly.
Quick tip: If your cooktop has removable burner parts, swap with a working burner. If the issue follows the part, you found the likely culprit.
Learn more →A burner stuck on high commonly indicates a failed infinite switch, welded relay, or control board fault. We verify control behavior before parts replacement.
Quick tip: If it won’t regulate and overheats, stop using that burner until it’s diagnosed — it can damage cookware and the glass surface.
Learn more →Breaker trips usually mean a shorted element, damaged wiring, moisture intrusion, or a failing inverter/control. We test safely to avoid repeated trips and further damage.
Quick tip: Do not keep resetting the breaker and retrying — repeated trips can worsen the fault. Book a diagnostic.
Learn more →A cracked glass top can be unsafe and may expose internal components to spills. We evaluate whether it can be used temporarily and quote replacement options if required.
Quick tip: If the crack is spreading or you see moisture/spills reaching inside, stop using the cooktop and schedule service.
Learn more →Induction detection problems are often cookware-related, but can also be caused by a coil, sensor, or inverter/control issue. We confirm whether it’s the pan or the cooktop.
Quick tip: Try a known induction-compatible pan (a magnet should stick to the bottom). If it still won’t detect, it needs testing.
Learn more →Unexpected shutdowns often relate to overheating protection, fan failure, sensor problems, or control faults. We check cooling and sensors first to prevent repeat shutdowns.
Quick tip: Make sure vents are not blocked (especially on induction). If it shuts off repeatedly, stop using it and schedule diagnosis.
Learn more →Error codes can point to sensors, controls, inverter modules, or safety/lock conditions. The code narrows the system — testing confirms the exact failure.
Quick tip: Power-cycle reset: unplug/turn off breaker for 5 minutes. If the code returns, component testing is required.
Learn more →We service many Maytag models — model number optional when booking.
Most jobs fall into the $120-$240 labor range. Parts priced separately after diagnostic.
When available, yes. We also provide aftermarket options if cheaper.
The technician compares repair cost with age/condition and gives a clear recommendation.
